Monday, February 05, 2007
This is my other pattern. It love how it came out but I had a tough time with the buttons sliding off on the first one I did, since they were really round and it coming undone. If you make this, be sure to use flat buttons, that will hold it properly! There is blocking required for the ruffled version and also I made up a chart for anyone who likes those better than written directions.
One size fits most. To adjust to any other size you will need a multiple of 5 plus 9. Or just add or subtract multiples of five from the number I have given to make it a little bigger or smaller. Either way remember to accommodate for stretching!
Width: 2 inches
Length: 11 inches unstretched and about 14 when stretched
[MC] Patons Lacette [fiber content; 39% Nylon, 36% Acrylic, 25% Mohair][235 yds/215 m per 50g skein]; color: 1 skein of any of the following: Cream Caress, Beautiful Blue, or Maroon Mist
(You won’t use anywhere near a whole skein!)
1 set US #3/3.25 mm straight or circular needle
140 Seed beads in color of choice
2 Buttons, a quarter of an inch. The flatter the better, I found that the choker tends to unbutton itself if the buttons are too round. It slides up and over the tops. You want buttons that will hold on!
28 sts/40 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
This is a very simple pattern. The choker is knit back and forth with beads pre-strung for a really easy embellishment. The ruffle is knit last so you have the option of leaving it off by just binding off. Buttons are sewn on at the end.
Pre-string your beads onto the yarn. It’s a good idea when using beads to check your yarn for knots and make sure you’ll be able to slide them along as you go! Also make sure to use a really thin beading needle to make things a lot quicker. I like to groups my beads in sets of tens on the yarn to make counting them quick and then I don’t have to count 200 beads one by one. With this yarn slide the beads very gently to avoid snagging and tearing the yarn too much. You may find as you work the beads tend to slide to the back of the choker. Just slide them to the front when you’re done and they’ll be fine.
Cast on 74 stitches loosely. You don’t want the edge to be puckered. If necessary use a larger needle for the cast on to keep this from happening. I have provided a chart for this choker for anyone who prefers working in that method. After casting on start with row one and bind off (loosely!) after row 27.
Here are the written instructions for those who don’t like charts:
(RS)Row 1: K4, *b1, k4* and repeat across. (WS)
Row 2 and all wrong side rows: P6, *k2, p3* across and end with a p6
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat rows 1 and 2
Row 5 (buttonhole row): K2, yo, k2tog, *b1, k4* across
Rows 6: Repeat row 2
Rows 7-14: Repeat rows 1 and 2
Row 15: Repeat row 5
Row 16: Repeat row 2
Rows 17-19: Repeat rows 1 and 2 and then row 1 once more
Continue to ruffle or bind off now to finish without the ruffle.
Row 1: Bind off the first three stitches and purl across
Row 2: *K1, M1* across, end with a K1
Rows 3-8: Work in stockinette
Row 9: Bind off
For an additional ruffle along the top or bottom edge:
With right side facing pick up and knit one stitch for every stitch across the choker except for the three stitches above or below the button band. Then follow directions as for the first ruffle.
The ruffle will need blocking to behave. Pin it down and block the ruffle with a pin on both sides of a fold in the ruffle like shown.
All that’s left is to sew on your buttons and you’re ready to go!
Sew them to the second and third stitches from the end on rows 5 and 15 to match up to the buttonholes.
Pattern note: I have since learned, after designing this pattern, that the beads will show better if you slip the stitch before and after the beaded stitch. Or you can purl the beaded stitch instead of knitting it! Not sure which works better, I have yet to test either!